The Slitherants: Perhentian Islands - Wed 23/02

The Perhentian Islands…This was a place that we had both heard a lot about and we were eager to see if it lived up to expectations. It is known as the most beautiful islands in a nation of beautiful islands so we were expecting something pretty special. The trip from Kuala Terennganu was slow involving a few bus changes but was otherwise uneventful. The boat over to Pulau Perhentian Kecil (this means the small island) was quite fun and we were skipping across the swell in a twin outboard motored speed boat. Once we arrived at Long beach, where most of the budget guest houses are located we had to pay a further two ringgit each to get ourselves and our belongings off the first boat and onto the shore.

We were both struck with just how clear the water was here. It is far and away the most beautiful beach I’ve ever been to and much more beautiful than the best beaches I have seen in both Australia and Thailand. I know it’s a big call but the water was completely clear with only white sand underneath, it was hard to believe that it was salt water and not fresh water. As we hadn’t booked a place, which we have found to be unnecessary at this time of year here, we traipsed with all our gear into the first guest house that we saw. The ‘Matahari’ our guide had said was okay so we decided to give it a go. Result! The room (which is a stand alone hut with a double bed, big verandah, mosquito net and fan) was 20 ringgit per night, around $6.50 AUD. This was the cheapest hut we had found in Malaysia and it was on the best island we had encountered. We were both pretty happy with this and immediately went for a swim in the amazing water.

The next few days consisted of reading our books on the beach, eating, swimming and pretty much doing bugger all. Now this may sound idyllic, dear reader, but I must confess. When you are born ginger and you have a million thoughts racing around your head all day, every day you start to get, dare I say it….a little…bored? I know, I know it beats working for a living but still there’s only so much sitting on the beach reading, doing nothing you (I) can take.

With this in mind we decided to go on a snorkelling trip around the Perhentian’s organised through the place that we were staying. They also had a dive shop attached so for a mere 40 ringgit ($12AUD) we spent a whole day exploring 5 top snorkelling sights around both the main islands. First we stopped in a shallow channel between the islands where the driver of the boat searched the water for turtles. Not little tiddlers either, they’re the kind of turtles that could feed a village for a whole month, they’re more than a metre from head to tail and when the bloke spots one he says ’right in you go’. With that we literally drop right on top of the unsuspecting turtles who are just floating quietly along the bottom having their lunch. You can swim so close that if you put your hand out you can touch them and you can see all the little swirly designs on the backs of their shells. We also went to a place called ’Shark point’ where you can see reef sharks swimming around along with all the obligatory multi-coloured tropical fish. It really was awesome and the way the sharks swim through the water is amazing. After a few more stops where we were able to ambush a couple more turtles it was time for a swim and a final snorkel at a deserted white sand beach and then back to Long beach.

Long beach itself was a good place to chill out but it did make us wonder whether there is actually anyone back in Scandinavia because it seems as though the entire population is having a holiday in Malaysia, namely the Perhentians. There was a very young crowd of Swedes and Norwegians, some who appeared they had been trapped in a toaster. One disturbing trend was for a couple of the guys to grease each other up with oil then run around in their undies kicking a soccer ball back and forward to one another up and down the beach. Not boxers either but full on tighty whitey style briefs! Disturbing was a word that sprang to mind but I guess the Scandinavian’s don’t get much practise at going to the beach so they might not know how to do it yet.

Anywho after all the snorkelling, swimming and doing nothing we thought it might be a good time to get away from the islands and head inland to the Cameron highlands. This is the mountainous region of Malaysia and has a much cooler climate with peaks rising to a touch under seven thousand feet above sea level but more about this place next time. Til then.

The crystal clear water....

Me looking a bit more tanned after a few more days on an island.

A half-opened umbrella. You could rent an umbrella for $AU3 per day. We did a few days as there wasn't a lot of shade on Long Beach.

Our bungalow. It was the cheapest accomodation we have had so far on our trip - RM20 - $AU7 per night. It was this cheap because it is the low tourist season. In the high season I am sure that you would have to pay about $AU20 per night.